Explore Islay
Port Charlotte, Islay
Welcome
Port Charlotte — The Village We Head To
Port Charlotte is the village to head to. A 30-minute walk along the coastal path from our properties, or a 5-minute drive — close enough to feel like part of the same place, far enough that you go on purpose. It's where you'll go for a meal at the seafood kitchen, a pint by the fire at the Port Charlotte Hotel, the museum, the playground, or just a wander along the harbour to watch the loch.
The coastal path arrives in Port Charlotte at the lighthouse — a flat 3-mile tarmac route along the Loch Indaal shore from Bruichladdich, with the Paps of Jura visible across the water on a clear day. Suitable for pushchairs, wheelchairs and bikes. When our children were younger and we lived at Portbahn House, we'd often walk in along the shore and they'd spend afternoons crabbing off the harbour wall — it was one of their favourite things. Swimming is straight off the rocks in the harbour, or at Portbahn Beach itself via the war memorial path.
Port Charlotte was founded as a planned village by Walter Frederick Campbell in 1828, on the western shore of Loch Indaal. Behind the village, the road climbs onto the wider Rhinns peninsula — geologically distinct from the rest of Islay, part of a land mass once connected to South America, all ancient gneiss rock. It's a different feel again up there, with the Atlantic on one side and some of the most thought-provoking archaeology on the island within twenty minutes' drive.
What's in the Village
Port Charlotte Village
Port Charlotte is perhaps Islay's prettiest village, just a 5-minute drive or 30-minute walk along the coastal path from our properties. It's the social hub of the Rhinns, with regular live music at the Port Charlotte Hotel and immense local seafood platters at the Lochindaal — it has everything you'll need for a self-catering break.
What's in the Village
Where to Eat & Drink
Port Charlotte Hotel — Owned and run by Grahame and Isabelle, with Scottish fare and an outstanding whisky bar with 300+ bottles on their single malt menu. The restaurant takes bookings (advised), but the bar is walk-in. Good Sunday roasts. Traditional Scottish live music on Wednesdays and Sundays is popular and a lovely way to spend an evening by a roaring log fire, dram in hand.
Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen — Truly exceptional, run with huge heart by Jack and his father Iain. An absolute highlight (we'd say a MUST), the seafood platters from the local fishermen's catch feature oysters, langoustines, crab, lobster and mussels. You need to order the full platter 24 hours ahead and it may vary depending on catch — but it is absolutely worth planning around. Also a great whisky selection if you just want to drop in for a pint or a dram. Our guests consistently rave about this place and it's one of our favourite spots on the Rhinns. See the full food & drink guide →
What's in the Village
What Else You'll Find
The Museum of Islay Life tells the history of the island. There's a local shop, post office and petrol station for essentials. For families, the children's playground at Port Mor has sea views and is a favourite with our kids and our guests' children. There's also a good café serving great comfort food.
History & Archaeology
History & Archaeology Around Port Charlotte
The Rhinns peninsula has more significant archaeology within twenty minutes' drive than you'd expect from anywhere this remote — and the Museum of Islay Life in Port Charlotte is where the records of it all live.
The Museum of Islay Life occupies a former Free Church on Main Street and holds the island's archaeology, social history, and the Mesolithic flint collection from Bolsay Farm on the Rhinns — over 300,000 artefacts from a hunting camp dating to the period immediately after the last Ice Age. A good place to start, especially on a wet afternoon.
Cultoon Stone Circle, near Portnahaven, is one of the more thought-provoking sites on the island: fifteen Neolithic stones laid out in a circle, but only three ever raised upright. The project was abandoned mid-construction. Apart from Stonehenge, Cultoon is the only stone circle in Britain to show clear evidence of an unfinished build.
Kilchiaran Bay, fifteen minutes' drive on the west coast, gathers three sites at one stop: the ruined medieval chapel (likely 13th century, dedicated to St Ciaron), the much older Cup Stone with its twenty-two Neolithic depressions, and the unusual semi-circular farm steading dating from 1784 — the only farm building of its kind on Islay.
Olistadh, on the road from Port Charlotte up to Kilchiaran, is one of the Rhinns clearance townships emptied in the 1830s and resettled along the coast at Port Wemyss and Portnahaven. A Reading University archaeological dig took place there in 2024.
And one short detour worth knowing: roughly a mile out of Port Charlotte on the Kilchiaran road sits the Toothy Stone — a flat stone studded with old nails. Local tradition held that anyone with toothache could walk to the stone, hammer in a nail, and the pain would be drawn away. The practice was documented by Peggy Earl in Tales of Islay.
For the full picture of Islay's archaeology — from the Bunnahabhain stromatolites (1.2 billion years old) through the Kildalton Cross to the WWI sites at the Oa — see our Islay Archaeology & History guide →
Exploring the Rhinns
Exploring the Rhinns from Port Charlotte
The loop down to Portnahaven and back via Kilchiaran is one of our favourite afternoons on Islay — and one of the first we'd do when guests, friends or family came to stay.
Out of Port Charlotte the road runs south down the west side of the loch to the twin coastal villages of Portnahaven and Port Wemyss at the very tip of the Rhinns. Stop for a drink or a bite at An Tigh Seinnse pub overlooking Portnahaven harbour, and watch the seals — grey seals are almost always on the rocks in the bay, common seals around too. Look across the narrow channel to Orsay Island and you can see the Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse — designed by Robert Stevenson and built in 1825, one of the oldest lighthouses on the west coast. On calm days you can hear the seals on Orsay singing across the water.
Just up the road in Port Wemyss, Kate at Burnside Lodge runs The Cake Cupboard — a self-service cake cupboard just off the coastal path with outstanding home-baked cakes, scones and pies. Open Friday to Sunday in season. Worth timing the loop around.
There's plenty of space for children to clamber on the rocks at the shore — ours used to spend half the afternoon doing exactly that when we lived at Portbahn.
From Portnahaven, head back inland and then north along the west-coast single-track road. It winds through wild rock and grass with the Atlantic on one side; passing places are well marked. Stop at Cultoon for the stone circle. Then again at Kilchiaran Bay for the ruined chapel, the Cup Stone, and the 1784 semi-circular farm steading. The Toothy Stone is on the road back to Port Charlotte if you didn't catch it on the way out.
Back into Port Charlotte for grub at one of the pubs. The whole loop is roughly 50 minutes of driving plus stops. We've never done it the same way twice.
→ Rhinns of Islay Circular Drive — full route
Port Charlotte, Islay
Port Charlotte, Islay — Places & Services
Locations
Find the Places
19 locations on Islay
Village
Port Charlotte
Port Charlotte is a planned village on the western shore of Loch Indaal, Islay, 5 minutes' drive from Bruichladdich. It has a beach, the Museum of Islay Life, Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen, Port Charlotte Hotel, and Port Charlotte Stores.
Restaurant
Port Charlotte Hotel
Port Charlotte Hotel is a hotel and bar-restaurant in Port Charlotte, Islay, with a single malt whisky menu of over 300 bottles, a restaurant, and traditional Scottish live music on Wednesday and Sunday evenings.
Open all year: – (Restaurant and bar open to non-residents. Lunch and dinner served daily. Check portcharlottehotel.co.uk for current meal times.)
Restaurant
Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen
Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen is a small seafood restaurant in Port Charlotte, Islay, serving local shellfish including langoustines, crab, oysters, and mussels. Booking recommended.
Check website for current hours: – (Seasonal variations apply. Check lochindaalseafoodkitchen.co.uk.)
Restaurant
Lochindaal Hotel
The Lochindaal Hotel is a pub and restaurant on the harbourfront in Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay, run by Jack and his father Iain. Known for exceptional fresh seafood — langoustines, crab, oysters, mussels from the local catch — an extensive whisky selection, and a genuinely warm welcome. The seafood platter is the best on the island. Family-friendly.
May-Sep: 12:00–01:00 (Bar and restaurant.)
Oct-Apr: 15:00–01:00 (Check with hotel for current food serving times.)
Attraction
Museum of Islay Life
The Museum of Islay Life is a heritage museum in Port Charlotte, Islay, documenting the island's history, culture, and natural heritage.
May-Sep (Mon-Sat): 10:30–16:30 (Sunday 13:00-16:30.)
Apr & Oct (Mon-Fri): 10:30–16:30 (Closed Nov-Mar.)
Café / Shop
Port Charlotte Stores
Port Charlotte Stores is a village shop and post office in Port Charlotte, Islay, stocking daily essentials and operating a petrol pump.
Check locally for current hours: – (Village shop in Port Charlotte. Walking distance from Portbahn properties.)
Walking Route
Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte Coastal Path
The Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte coastal path is a flat 3-mile tarmac route along the Loch Indaal shoreline, starting directly from the Portbahn Islay properties. Suitable for all abilities including pushchairs and wheelchairs. Takes approximately 40 minutes each way.
Walking Route
Rhinns of Islay Circular Drive
The Rhinns Circular Drive is an afternoon route starting and ending at Bruichladdich, taking in Port Charlotte, Portnahaven and Port Wemyss at the southern tip of the peninsula, then Kilchiaran Bay on the west coast — returning via the scenic single-track west-coast road. Roughly 50 minutes of driving plus stops. Key stops: Museum of Islay Life, Portnahaven harbour (grey seals), Kilchiaran Chapel and Cup Stone, Kilchiaran Farm Steading, Cultoon Stone Circle.
Attraction
Portnahaven Harbour
Portnahaven harbour is a small natural harbour at the southern tip of the Rhinns peninsula on Islay. Grey seals are the most commonly spotted, almost always present on the rocks and in the water — visible from the harbour wall and the adjacent An Tigh Seinnse pub. Common (harbour) seals are also present in the surrounding coastal areas of the Rhinns.
Open access: – (Public harbour. Open at all times. Good for seal watching.)
Heritage Site
Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse
The Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse stands on Orsay Island, a short distance off Portnahaven at the southern tip of the Rhinns peninsula. Designed by Robert Stevenson and lit in 1825, it is one of the oldest lighthouses on Scotland's west coast — a 29-metre rubble-built tower flanked by two Georgian-style keepers' cottages. Stevenson designed an unusual light pattern producing a bright flash every 12 seconds without the long intervals of darkness that characterised other lights of the period. Electrified in 1978 and automated on 31 March 1998. Visible from the harbour walls at Portnahaven and Port Wemyss; the island is not normally open to visitors. Approximately 20-minute drive from Bruichladdich.
Café / Shop
The Cake Cupboard at Burnside Lodge
The Cake Cupboard at Burnside Lodge is a self-service cake takeaway in Port Wemyss on the Rhinns of Islay, run by Kate from her B&B just off the village coastal path. Homemade cakes, scones and pies, with breakfast rolls and good coffee most weekends. Open Friday, Saturday and Sunday throughout the season. Views across to Orsay Island and the Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse. Approximately 20-minute drive from Bruichladdich; sits naturally on the Rhinns circular drive.
Restaurant
An Tigh Seinnse
An Tigh Seinnse is a small traditional pub in Portnahaven at the southern tip of the Rhinns peninsula, Islay, serving home-cooked food. It is the most remote village pub on the island.
Mon-Sun: 12:00–23:00 (Fresh local seafood and homemade dishes. Hours may vary seasonally.)
Heritage Site
Cultoon Stone Circle
Cultoon Stone Circle is a Neolithic stone circle on the Rhinns of Islay, near Portnahaven. The circle is made up of 15 stones — only 3 standing, with 12 lying on the turf. Archaeological excavations in the 1970s revealed that the site was abandoned before construction was completed: sockets were dug for stones that were never raised. Apart from Stonehenge, Cultoon is the only stone circle in Britain to show clear evidence of mid-construction abandonment. Local tradition says two clans collaborating to build the circle argued and refused to continue. Approximately 20-minute drive from Bruichladdich.
Heritage Site
Kilchiaran Chapel
Kilchiaran Chapel (Cill Chiarain, dedicated to St Ciaron) is a ruined medieval chapel on the west coast of the Rhinns of Islay, overlooking Kilchiaran Bay. Likely built in the early 1200s as a dependency of Kilchoman, it was recorded as roofless in 1794 and restored by the Islay Historic Buildings Works Group in the early 1970s. Approximately 15-minute drive from Bruichladdich.
Heritage Site
Kilchiaran Cup Stone
The Kilchiaran Cup Stone is a Neolithic carved stone at the site of Kilchiaran Chapel on the west coast of the Rhinns of Islay. The flat schist slab — roughly 6 feet by 3 feet — is marked with 22 cup-shaped depressions, of which 18 are still visible; two have been worn right through the thickness of the slab. The carvings date to between 4,000 and 6,000 years ago and predate the chapel by millennia. Local tradition holds that church-goers turned a pestle in the cup marks while making a wish.
Heritage Site
Kilchiaran Farm Steading
Kilchiaran Farm Steading is a semi-circular stone farm building dating from 1784, on the west coast of the Rhinns of Islay near Kilchiaran Chapel. The distinctive round form is the only farm building of its kind on Islay. The wider steading complex includes a 19th-century threshing mill powered by an all-iron, high-breast waterwheel. Approximately 15-minute drive from Bruichladdich.
Heritage Site
The Toothy Stone
The Toothy Stone (also called the Tooth Stone or Toothache Stone) is a folk-tradition stone on the Rhinns of Islay, in a glen on the road from Port Charlotte to Kilchiaran. The stone is studded with old nails: local tradition held that anyone with toothache could walk to the stone, hammer in a nail, and the toothache would be drawn away. The practice was documented by Peggy Earl in Tales of Islay. Recorded by Historic Environment Scotland (trove.scot/place/169297; OS NR 233 584). Roughly a mile outside Port Charlotte, approximately 10-minute drive from Bruichladdich.
Heritage Site
Olistadh Clearance Village
Olistadh is an abandoned township on the Rhinns of Islay — one of several Rhinns settlements depopulated during the Highland Clearances. Tenants cleared from the Rhinns interior were resettled in the twin coastal villages of Port Wemyss and Portnahaven, both built in the 1830s for that purpose. An archaeological dig led by Reading University took place at Olistadh in June 2024. Recorded by Historic Environment Scotland (trove.scot/place/153899; OS NR 218 583). Approximately 15-minute drive from Bruichladdich.
Heritage Site
Bolsay Farm Mesolithic Site
Bolsay Farm is the site of a Mesolithic hunting camp on the Rhinns of Islay. Excavations have recovered over 300,000 flint artefacts dating to the period immediately after the last Ice Age — one of the richest Mesolithic finds in Scotland. The artefacts are now largely held at the Museum of Islay Life in Port Charlotte. Approximately 10-minute drive from Bruichladdich.
Common questions
Port Charlotte, Islay
Is Port Charlotte worth visiting from Bruichladdich?
Port Charlotte is 5 minutes' drive from our Bruichladdich properties and is the village we recommend most consistently. It has a safe beach, the Museum of Islay Life, Port Charlotte Stores (shop with a petrol pump), the Port Charlotte Hotel (log fire, 300+ single malts, live music on Wednesday and Sunday evenings), and Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen — our top restaurant recommendation on the island. The village is pretty, quiet, and well worth an afternoon or an evening meal. The coastal cycle path from Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte is flat tarmac and takes about 40 minutes each way — suitable for all abilities including pushchairs and bikes.
Is the coastal path from Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte suitable for all abilities?
The coastal path from Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte is flat, tarmac, and suitable for all abilities including wheelchairs, mobility aids, and pushchairs. The path runs for 3 miles along the Loch Indaal shoreline and is a shared-use cycle path and walking route — well maintained and signposted. The walk takes approximately 40 minutes each way at a comfortable pace. The path starts immediately outside our three properties on the Loch Indaal shoreline near Bruichladdich, so no driving is required. Port Charlotte at the far end has a village shop, the Museum of Islay Life, and the Port Charlotte Hotel and Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen for food and drink.
What is Portnahaven like — is it worth the drive?
Portnahaven — and its neighbour Port Wemyss — at the southern tip of the Rhinns is one of the most rewarding short trips from our properties. It is a 20-minute drive along a quiet road that gets progressively emptier as you go south. The harbour almost always has common seals hauled out on the rocks and swimming in the water — often close enough to observe clearly. An Tigh Seinnse is a small, genuinely local pub serving home-cooked food. Open year-round; winter hours apply from November. Regular season hours: Thursday to Sunday from noon, Wednesday from 4:30pm, closed Monday and Tuesday. Reservations required — call 01496 860725 and confirm hours for winter visits. The combination of seals, good food, and the sense of being at the very end of the road makes Portnahaven the best half-day on the Rhinns after Port Charlotte.
Accommodation
Stay on Islay

Bruichladdich, Isle of Islay
IslayPortbahn House
Sleeps 8 · 3 bedrooms · 2 bathrooms · Dogs welcome
Bruichladdich Distillery
★ 4.97/5 · 226+ reviews
- Sea views
- Private garden
- Conservatory

Bruichladdich, Isle of Islay, Scotland
IslayShorefield House
Sleeps 6 · 3 bedrooms · 2 bathrooms · Dogs welcome
Bruichladdich Distillery, 5 minute walk
★ 4.97/5 · 156+ reviews
- Sea views
- Walled garden
- Private garden

Bruichladdich, Isle of Islay
IslayCurlew Cottage
Sleeps 6 · 3 bedrooms · 2 bathrooms · Dogs welcome
Bruichladdich Distillery, 5 minute walk
New property 2026
- Sea views
- Walled garden
- Private garden

Stay on Jura
JuraBothan Jura Retreat
4 units · Sleeps 2 each · Dogs welcome
- Hot tubs
- Wood-fired sauna
- Paps of Jura