Getting Around Islay

Driving on Islay

Most roads carry two-way traffic, but a fair stretch of the island is single-track with marked passing places. Locals use the passing places to let faster traffic past, not just to wait for oncoming cars - pull in early. Wildlife on the road is normal: sheep, cattle, geese, the occasional otter at dusk. Speed limits exist, but island driving sets its own pace.

You'll notice oncoming drivers waving at you - or more commonly lifting a finger off the steering wheel. That's the Islay wave: a quiet bit of courtesy acknowledging another driver on a quiet road. We do it without thinking now - it took a few weeks of feeling self-conscious about it when we first moved here. Reciprocate if you feel like it. It's part of island culture.

Drink-drive limit. Scotland's limit is 50mg per 100ml - lower than England's 80mg. For a full distillery day, the only sensible approach is not to drive at all. That's not a limitation on Islay; it's an invitation to use the taxis, the bus, or a bike.

Fuel. There are two fuel stations on the island - one at Port Askaig Stores by the ferry terminal, and one at the Port Ellen Co-op. Both pumps take card. Fill up before any long day's driving - the next pump is on the mainland.

Distances from our Bruichladdich properties

• Bruichladdich Distillery: 5-minute walk along the coastal path
• Portbahn Beach: 5-minute walk via the war memorial path
• Aileen's Mini-Market (Debbie's): 5-minute walk
• Port Charlotte: 5-minute drive or 30-minute walk along the coast
• Bowmore: 15-minute drive
• Machir Bay: 15-minute drive
• RSPB Loch Gruinart: 20-minute drive
• Port Askaig (ferry to Kennacraig + Jura): 25-minute drive
• Islay Airport: 30-minute drive
• Ardbeg / Lagavulin / Laphroaig: 40-50-minute drive
• Port Ellen ferry terminal: 45-minute drive

Single-track sections make those drive times realistic rather than optimistic. Allow extra in summer, when the road can be busier.

Car hire

Islay Car Hire - 07824 665099 - operates from the airport and the ferry ports, and can leave a car at the airport for collection. Book well ahead for summer and Fèis Ìle week. Expect small, practical vehicles - no luxury fleet, but perfectly adequate for island roads. Weekly rates work out better value than daily.

By bus

The local bus is useful for day-trips on Islay: distillery days down the south coast, village trips to Bowmore or Port Charlotte, an evening at a restaurant where you'd rather not drive home.

Islay Coaches runs Routes 450 and 451 - the spine of the island's public transport. Between them they connect Portnahaven, Port Charlotte, Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Port Ellen, Ardbeg, and Port Askaig. Timetables are published by Argyll and Bute Council; pick the latest PDF before you travel.

Bus stops on request. Drivers will pick up and drop off between marked stops if you flag them down or ask. For Portbahn House or Shorefield, ask to stop just past Gleaner's oil depot. For Curlew Cottage, the stop is on the Coultorsay drive before the war memorial.

Dogs aren't permitted on the buses (assistance dogs only).

If you've landed on a late flight and missed the last bus to Bruichladdich (17:31 arrival), see Arriving on Islay for recovery options.

By bike

Islay has quiet roads and is well-suited to cycling. The Rhinns peninsula - where our properties are - is flat, coastal, and good by bike. The Rhinns Loop (Bruichladdich to Portnahaven and back, around 18 miles along Loch Indaal) is the obvious starter ride. The Whisky Coast (Port Ellen out to Ardbeg, around 14 miles one way) is the distillery trail by bike.

Islay Bike Hire - standard rental bikes for the day or week.

Islay E-Wheels - electric bikes with Bosch drive systems. We hire e-bikes for distillery days ourselves - it solves the drive-home dilemma, the hills don't matter, and you can have a dram at every stop without worrying about the ride back.

By taxi

Taxis are the go-to for distillery days when you want a dram at every stop, or for the late return from a restaurant in Bowmore or Port Charlotte. Two firms cover the island. Pre-book - the island has limited taxi capacity and drivers fill up during Fèis Ìle week and peak summer.

Bruichladdich Taxis - 07899 942673 or 01496 850271. Based on the Rhinns, covers the whole island.

Attic Cabs - 07944 873323.

Walking from our properties

If you're staying at Portbahn House or Shorefield House, a good slice of what you'll want to do is on foot. Bruichladdich Distillery is a 10-minute walk along the coastal path. Portbahn Beach is 5 minutes via the war memorial path. Port Charlotte is 30 minutes along the loch, with the Paps of Jura across the water on a clear day - one of the better village-to-village walks on the island.

For walking routes more broadly - coastal paths, hill walks, dog-friendly options - see our Islay walking guide.

Continuing to Jura

The Jura ferry from Port Askaig is a five-minute crossing for foot passengers, cyclists, and cars. Daytime sailings run roughly every half-hour. If you're catching the late evening sailing or sorting an onward-Jura plan, see our Arriving on Islay guide for the booking detail.

For day-trip planning - what to do once you're across, where to eat, the road north to Barnhill - see our visit Jura guide.